- use of shock collars
- timing of praise/correction
- Charlotte allow dogs to come to restaurants (patio)
- allergies are flying high
- mental stimulation games for dogs made easy
- getting the new training facilty ready
- group classes
- specialty classes
- ...
Monday, September 20, 2010
Reemergence
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Bootcamp

Wednesday, April 21, 2010
What is the right breed for me?
20 years ago it was fairly easy to read up on a breed and get the dog that suited you the most. Unfortunately, in our consumer-driven world things have changed tremendously and it is becoming harder and harder. Instead of a breed being in careful, dedicated hands, popular dogs end up with "breeders" that do no testing, and don't really care to preserve, maintain or improve the integrity of the breed. They just breed for money, flooding the breed in question with poor specimens and genetic disasters. This creates behavioral and health issues that used to be unknown to the specific breed.
Two of the most popular family dogs have been and are Labrador Retrievers and Golden Retrievers. They are gentle, intelligent and family-friendly. Because of their aptitude to please their masters, they excel as guide dogs for the blind, as part of search-and-rescue teams or in law enforcement. From joint and bone problems, to eye diseases, to heart disease, to cancer, they can now be risky in the health department. Behavioral trait changes – a number of Labs and Goldens are developing aggression issues.
German Shepherd Dogs have been in the Top 5 of the most popular breeds for decades. The AKC describes them as a breed that is approachable, direct and fearless, with a strong, muscular body. Energetic and fun-loving, the breed is very fond of children once a relationship is established. Sounds like a dream come true, doesn't it? Health problems that are accentuated by over breeding range from hip and elbow dysplasia, to Panosteitis, to pyotraumatic dermatitis and skin allergies. Behavioral issues – timid and shy GSDs are showing up more and more, a trait that can make them unpredictable.
Designer/Hybrid breeds (Labradoodle, Goldendoodle, Cock-a-poo, Pek-a-poo, Schnoodle, Puggle, …) have neurotic tendencies, as they were bred for looks, color and coat and often not for mental stability. One of the first designer breeds was the Labradoodle. The particular purpose in mind for this hybrid was the Labrador Retrievers' superior performance as a service dog, and the Poodles' non-shedding, non-allergenic coat. This combination produces a great guide dog for people with allergies. It works quite well in theory, but due to the nature of genetics, it's not always a 'sure thing'!
When you decide to go ahead and buy a purebred puppy. Do your homework! It is hard to find a responsible breeder that practices selective breeding, but it is worth your time and money. Keep in mind, that you can potentially save a lot of money in the long run, as the chances of arising health issues are smaller. Additionally, although a dog's behavior is heavily depending on his upbringing and environmental influences, genetics still play a role in it. You could potentially save money there, as chances are you don't need my help as much! J
J
Saturday, April 3, 2010
3 Steps to Success
Have you ever wondered if you are on the right track with your training? Is it too late? Is it working?
Teaching a dog a new behavior can be quite an exercise in patience and at times it can be hard to stick with the work. Let's say for the last couple of years your dog has been pulling on the leash. Walking Fido has become a chore instead of being fun. Your shoulder is hurting. Your dream of sitting at a coffee shop reading the newspaper, sipping on a cappuccino and having a croissant while Fido is lying at your feet has evaporated. Frustrating? Yes! Is it too late to make your dream come true? No!
Fido won't be too thrilled at first. He doesn't understand what's going on and that is frustrating. But once he understands what you ask from him, he will be one proud dog. Getting from frustration to proud dog, Fido will go through 3 different steps.
- Fight
- Avoidance
- Acceptance
It can take anywhere from an hour to several days or weeks going through these sequences, but don't give up. For a lot of dog owners witnessing the first stage, fight, is quite unnerving. Keep calm and don't get frustrated, you know what the reward will be at the end! The second stage, avoidance, is trickier – often people are tempted to think that they are done. Keep going! The final stage, acceptance, is when your dog gives you the behaviors for which you were working so hard. You have arrived!
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Separation Anxiety
As the name already indicates, it is a disorder that will leave your dog with worries that are out of proportion to the situation. Some of the milder symptoms are a little crying and barking, but it can also turn into severe panting, drooling, chewing, destructive behavior, stomach/intestinal problems, …
The medical description of anxiety is below. Although it is describing human anxiety it can easily translated into "dog" talk.
Main Entry: anx·i·ety
Pronunciation: a[ng]-'zI-&t-E
Function: noun
Inflected Form: plural –eties
1
a: a painful or apprehensive uneasiness of mind usually over an impending or anticipated ill
b: a cause of anxiety
2:
an abnormal and overwhelming sense of apprehension and fear often marked by physiological signs (as sweating, tension, and increased pulse), by doubt concerning the reality and nature of the threat, and by self-doubt about one's capacity to cope with it
Merriam-Webster's Medical Dictionary, © 2002 Merriam-Webster, Inc.
Although I address every case individually there are some general things that can help you to avoid or work on separation anxiety.
- Tire out your dog physically as well as mentally before you leave
- Play with your dog close to the crate
- Have special treats (bones, rawhide, selected toys) that your dog can have only in the crate even when you are home (when you are home leave the gate open)
- Leave very calmly, like you would just walk into another room (no teary good-byes)
- When you return go to the crate open the gate and don't pay any attention to your dog until he has calmed down (no excited hellos)
- Boost your dogs confidence, by teaching him a number of commands. Every time he does it right he has a sense of accomplishment!
- DON'T CUDDLE YOUR DOG OR CONSOLE HIM! If you do, you tell your dog that he was right to be anxious and you validate the fear. Be positive and upbeat instead and tell him that everything is fine and that he can get over it.
As with most things a blog post, can't do the complexity of the topic full justice. I hope though, that it will be helpful.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
The Good * The Bad * The Ugly
Monday, February 22, 2010
Quote from Caesar Millan
A friend sent me this quote recently. I had always compared it with raising children, but I think I will use Caesar Millan's quote more often in the future. :)
Friday, February 19, 2010
Good and quickly seldom meet
When we finally agreed to meet a dog that was in need of a new home, we liked that he was nearly a year old. We didn’t want to deal with puppy training, and I have to admit I felt bad for him. We already envisioned walking with our dogs to the coffee shop, playing fetch with them, both of them having a companion to play and run, etc. We should have known better - the mixture of anticipation and excitement can be quite deceiving! Welcoming any new dog, puppy or adult, turns everyone’s life upside-down.
We did end up having to deal with puppy ‘stuff’! Of course, it went by faster than it would have with a younger puppy, nevertheless at times I questioned (tearfully) our decision. I had something like buyer’s remorse. We did overcome that obstacle once we stopped babying him and feeling sorry for him. We explained to him the rules of our house and that there were no freebies. As he is not paying our mortgage he has to earn his treats, our affection, privileges (e.g. freedom around the house) and food with good behavior. Besides the mental part we also provided him with plenty of exercise – as we all know, a tired dog is a good dog. At last, everyone is happy!
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Guess how much a dog from "prison" knows!
Last Friday, the third group of Carolina P.A.W.S. dogs graduated from the New Leash on Life program. It was an interesting group - Aiko, a white Schnauzer; Camden, a German Shepherd mix; Jillian, a Great Pyrenees and Toby, a Pomeranian mix.
To follow up I sent out an email to the new owners listing everything their dogs had learned while they were in "prison." Wow, I was genuinely surprised once I saw in black and white how much they had achieved in eight weeks!
Your dogs were taught the following commands on and off-lead (advanced):
Sit
Down
Heel (Walk)
Come
Stay (with and without distraction)
Leave it
Go to (send the dog to another person – needs to be reinforced for every new person)
Down (with dropping the leash and you continue to walk)
We also practiced the emergency drop – this is truly advanced obedience and they still need some work on it
[Emergency drop – call your dog from a distance and when they are about halfway you tell them to stop and lay down. This command is supposed to save your dog should he be running towards a street]
Wiping Paws:
One of the routines my dogs are used to and I think is something every dog should know is wiping their paws. Your dogs were taught to stand still and have their paws wiped.
Jump:
Heaving a dog into a car can be a pain. Your dogs know the jump command – pat the place where you want them to jump up and tell them “jump”
Crating:
Your dogs are perfectly fine being crated when you are gone or overnight.
In regards to agility they learned to navigate the following obstacles:
A-frame
Tire jump
See-saw
(We are hoping to get more agility equipment soon – I’m working on finding used equipment to save some money)
Different parlor tricks
Impressive - isn't it?
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Dog Training - what are your goals?

This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to approach it and speak to the handler in a natural, everyday situation. The evaluator walks up to the dog and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show no sign of resentment or shyness, and must not break position or try to go to the evaluator.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the dog will allow a friendly stranger to touch it while it is out with its handler. With the dog sitting at the handler's side, to begin the exercise, the evaluator pets the dog on the head and body. The handler may talk to his or her dog throughout the exercise. The dog may stand in place as it is petted. The dog must not show shyness or resentment.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This practical test demonstrates that the dog will welcome being groomed and examined and will permit someone, such as a veterinarian, groomer or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner's care, concern and sense of responsibility. The evaluator inspects the dog to determine if it is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy condition (i.e., proper weight, clean, healthy and alert). The handler should supply the comb or brush commonly used on the dog. The evaluator then softly combs or brushes the dog, and in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front foot. It is not necessary for the dog to hold a specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog, praise it and give encouragement throughout.
Test 4: Out for a walk (walking on a loose lead)
This test demonstrates that the handler is in control of the dog. The dog may be on either side of the handler. The dog's position should leave no doubt that the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler's movements and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the handler and need not sit when the handler stops. The evaluator may use a pre-plotted course or may direct the handler/dog team by issuing instructions or commands. In either case, there should be a right turn, left turn, and an about turn with at least one stop in between and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way, praise the dog, or give commands in a normal tone of voice. The handler may sit the dog at the halts if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in public places. The dog and handler walk around and pass close to several people (at least three). The dog may show some interest in the strangers but should continue to walk with the handler, without evidence of over-exuberance, shyness or resentment. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog should not jump on people in the crowd or strain on the leash.
Test 6: Sit and down on command and Staying in place
This test demonstrates that the dog has training, will respond to the handler's commands to sit and down and will remain in the place commanded by the handler (sit or down position, whichever the handler prefers). The dog must do sit AND down on command, then the owner chooses the position for leaving the dog in the stay. Prior to this test, the dog's leash is replaced with a line 20 feet long. The handler may take a reasonable amount of time and use more than one command to get the dog to sit and then down. The evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler's commands. The handler may not force the dog into position but may touch the dog to offer gentle guidance. When instructed by the evaluator, the handler tells the dog to stay and walks forward the length of the line, turns and returns to the dog at a natural pace. The dog must remain in the place in which it was left (it may change position) until the evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog will come when called by the handler. The handler will walk 10 feet from the dog, turn to face the dog, and call the dog. The handler may use encouragement to get the dog to come. Handlers may choose to tell dogs to "stay" or "wait" or they may simply walk away, giving no instructions to the dog.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the dog can behave politely around other dogs. Two handlers and their dogs approach each other from a distance of about 20 feet, stop, shake hands and exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about 10 feet. The dogs should show no more than casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its handler.
Test 9: Reaction to distraction
This test demonstrates that the dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations. The evaluator will select and present two distractions. Examples of distractions include dropping a chair, rolling a crate dolly past the dog, having a jogger run in front of the dog, or dropping a crutch or cane. The dog may express natural interest and curiosity and/or may appear slightly startled but should not panic, try to run away, show aggressiveness, or bark. The handler may talk to the dog and encourage or praise it throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that a dog can be left with a trusted person, if necessary, and will maintain training and good manners. Evaluators are encouraged to say something like, "Would you like me to watch your dog?" and then take hold of the dog's leash. The owner will go out of sight for three minutes. The dog does not have to stay in position but should not continually bark, whine, or pace unnecessarily, or show anything stronger than mild agitation or nervousness. Evaluators may talk to the dog but should not engage in excessive talking, petting, or management attempts (e.g, "there, there, it's alright").
Equipment
All tests must be performed on leash. Dogs should wear well-fitting buckle or slip collars made of leather, fabric, or chain. Special training collars such as pinch collars, head halters, etc. are not permitted in the CGC test. We recognize that special training collars may be very useful tools for beginning dog trainers, however, we feel that dogs are ready to take the CGC test at the point at which they are transitioned to regular collars.
The evaluator supplies a 20-foot lead for the test. The owner/handler should bring the dog's brush or comb to the test.
EncouragementOwners/handlers may use praise and encouragement throughout the test. The owner may pet the dog between exercises. Food and treats are not permitted during testing, nor is the use of toys, squeaky toys, etc. to get the dog to do something. We recognize that food and toys may provide valuable reinforcement or encouragement during the training process but these items should not be used during the test.
Failures – Dismissals
Any dog that eliminates during testing must be marked failed. The only exception to this rule is that elimination is allowable in test Item 10, but only when test Item 10 is held outdoors.
Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog is not a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.
